Fynn Renner, Head of Advanced Training at the Konstanz youth division of the German Alpine Club (JDAV), and his team have successfully replaced a total of 38 existing safety hooks with new ones on the climbing route “No water, no moon” on the Wildhauser Schafberg (Switzerland). The fischer FIS V Plus was used and ensures long-lasting strength and longevity. The high-performance mortar was used to install so-called adhesive hooks (also known as Bühler hooks). The composite system is firmly bonded to the rock face and achieves a permanently secure hold. A decisive factor, because every single anchor point is vital in climbing.

The climbing route “No water, no moon” is approximately 100 metres long and graded up to the difficulty level 7c (for experts). It follows a line of vertical to overhanging rock structures and puts high demands on exceptional endurance, technique, and mental strength. First climbed in 1985 by Martin Scheel and partners, it was a milestone in difficulty climbing. A first renovation took place in 2001, but over time it became apparent that the pitons were not holding securely—some had even loosened. The cause for this was an outdated frictionally engaged anchoring system. For the latest renovation, fischer’s high-performance mortar FIS V Plus was used, creating a reliable mechanical and chemical bond to the rock and ensuring long-term safety. 

Efficient assembly under extreme conditions 
A total of 38 hooks were replaced in partly overhanging rock. Additionally, abseil chains were retrofitted at each belay station. The number and placement of the belay points remained mostly unchanged, with minor adjustments due to poor rock conditions. “The FIS V Plus is remarkably easy to use, even in challenging overhead applications while working on the rope,” says Fynn Renner, who has renovated and developed numerous climbing routes as Head of Training for youth leaders at JDAV Konstanz. He is also a mountain guide aspirant with the Association of German Mountain and Ski Guides (VDBS). “Drill, clean, inject mortar, screw in the hook – done,” says Fynn Renner, describing the installation efficiency. “Once cured, the composite system is fully load-bearing and achieves permanently high load-bearing capacities.” While injection systems are generally more complex to use than modern frictionally engaged systems, says the experienced climbing route renovator, “the FIS V Plus impresses with its high ease of installation and reliability—even under the extreme conditions encountered while suspended on a rope.” 

Another advantage: the FIS DM S Pro manual dispenser allowed the high-performance mortar to be injected into the boreholes easily, effortlessly and precisely. The ergonomic design ensured easy handling and enabled fast and low-fatigue working. Together with the fischer injection mortar FIS V Plus, the manual dispenser offered an ideally harmonised system. “This was very practical, especially when working on overhanging rock faces,” emphasises Fynn Renner. Another fischer solution used was the Quattric II 5/100/165 S hammer drill bit, which ensured efficient drilling in hard rock with minimal wear and high performance. The BS ø14 cleaning brush was used for professional borehole cleaning. The fischer FAZ II Plus 10/20 R bolt anchor (stainless steel) was used to securely fasten the chains for abseiling at the anchor points. In this way, fischer offered the ideal complete solution for safe and efficient assembly—even under the extreme conditions on steep to overhanging rock faces. The bolts themselves were provided by Eastbolt (eastbolt.ch), a Swiss climbing route restoration organisation, which commissioned Fynn Renner to carry out the work. “Now all climbing enthusiasts can climb the route again with a good feeling,” says Fynn Renner. “We’ve safeguarded one of the most important climbing routes of its time for the future.”